Wax
Eteriniai aliejai ir kvapai žvakėms
Functional aromatic oils
Oriental and woody aromatic oils from Asia
Fresh and citrus aromatic oils
Fruit aromatic oils
Floral aromatic oils
Niche aromatic oils
Christmas aromatic oils
Essential oils
Daggers
Pigments and dyes for candles
Indeliai ir pakavimo priemonės
Tools, moulds and accessories for candle making
Kits for making candles
Base for home fragrances
Soap bases
Active ingredients for soap making
Vegetable butters for soap making
Vegetable oils for soap making
Baking trays, utensils, tools for baking bread
Castilian soap, made from a mixture of pure olive oil, salt and water, is one of the mildest and purest versions of soap. Castile soap is known for its mild and non-allergenic effect on the skin, as it contains no animal fats, irritants or other toxic substances. It is a natural alternative to synthetic soaps, which can dry out the skin and cause sensitivity. Castile soap has a light lather and cleans well, which is why it is widely used as a body soap, a shampoo and even as a home cleanser.
Castilian soap becomes richer the longer it is aged – just like wine. Typically, the highest quality is achieved when the soap has been aged for at least 10 months or a whole year. Sea salt has been used for centuries in the recipes of this soap to improve the condition of the skin, and it also helps to create a harder bar of soap.
Savon de Marseille soaps, made in France from olive oil, sea water and salt, are not too different from what has been tried and tested for hundreds of years. And the Savon de Marseille seal is the final touch that gives this soap its traditional look.
To make this soap you will need:
| Tools | Vapour solution (sodium lye): |
| Silicone moulds Savon de Marseille soap stamp (optional) Electric blender | 119 g of caustic soda (with 5% extra oil) 309 g of distilled water 1 teaspoon of sea salt |
| Oil blend: | Essential oil blend: |
| 936 g pure olive oil (100 %) | 42 g essential oil |
Always wear clothing suitable for soap-making that covers exposed areas of the body. Work in a well-ventilated area. Make sure that the production area is free of unauthorised people, children or pets who may distract you.
- Add the sea salt to the distilled water and stir until completely dissolved.
2. Add the sodium alkali to the water in increments (never in reverse) and stir gently. Allow the tallow solution to dissolve completely until it becomes clear.
3. Pour the olive oil into a large bowl.
4. When the tallow solution has cooled to below 57 °C, add it to the bowl with the oil. We recommend pouring the tallow solution through the nozzle of a blender or a whisking paddle to minimise air bubbles. Lightly tap the back of the pestle on the bottom of the bowl several times to bring the air bubbles to the surface. Do not turn the blender on until it is completely submerged. After switching on, stir for 1 minute or until a thin line can be formed on the surface (eng.: “soap trace”).
5. Slowly add the essential oil mixture and whisk well until fully combined.
6. Pour the mixture into the mould of your choice
7. Spray the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to avoid soda deposits on the surface. Leave the soap to set for at least 48-72 hours before attempting to remove from the mould.
8. Although the salt will help this soap to harden, it may be slightly sticky for the first few days. If the soap is difficult to remove from the mould, put the whole mould in the fridge for 4 hours to make it easier to remove the soap from the mould.
9. If you use a soap seal, wait until the soap has warmed up after removing it from the fridge. We recommend using a rubber mallet to stamp the soap, the depth of the impression should be at least 1 mm.
10. Leave the soaps to mature in a well-ventilated place for another 4-8 weeks before use. We recommend turning the soap over every few days to ensure even maturation.